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Digital output (S/PDIF) of SACD and DVD-A players is restricted due to copyright reasons. This means at the digital output of your DVD-A/SACD player you get PCM signals in a restricted output quality:

For those who want to use an external (maybe better) D/A converter instead of the D/A converter built-in the player this restriction is a big drawback.

All other functions of your player will work as before, even Dolby-Digital or other digital output. With this kit installed you will get Stereo-PCM signals with their original output quality at the S/PDIF output of your player:

• Limit output rate for DVD-A 192 to 96kHz
• Provide a constant output rate of 96kHz no matter what kind of media is played
• Low jitter operation at constant output rate if tentlabs XO DIY oscillator (24.5760MHz) is used
• Input for synchronisation to an external (256 x fs) superclock (e.g. from Apogee Big Ben)
• Seamless operation with Tentlabs XO-3 for best jitter performance

Features

• The kit is real DIY. Only standard components despite the CS8606 and AD1896 were used.

• No changes at the housing of the player. All output is sent to the standard digital output.

• If superclock input should be used an additional BNC connector has to be built inside the player.

• The kit outputs SACD with 88.2 kHz and DVD-A with 96 kHz and 192kHz. 

• Using three kits a PCM 5.1. output can be realized. 

• On the board there is a multiplexer which passes all other outputs despite the hires signals (44,1 kHz, 48kHz, 5.1, DD, …) unchanged to the digital output of the player. This is especially important for Audio CDs recorded with emphasis and for all surround formats. (Not for the 'Constant', 'External superclock' or 'XO-3' option of the Extended Kit)

• Despite the standard output via multiplexer a S/PDIF output (0,7V for coax) directly behind the CS8406 is available (direct out). 

• The Extended Kit offers different modes of operation regarding the output rate (see table above). The modes of operation could be selected by setting jumpers (see Powerpoint presentation for details)

Theory of operation 

Playing SACD and DVD-A the Pioneer player delivers hires digital signals in I2S format to the built in D/A converters. These signals were taken, amplified (74HCT244) and delivered to a CS8406 S/PDIF transmitter. The clock for the transmitter is generated by a custom programmable logic device (CLOCK-GAL22V10). One output of the CS8406 is delivered to the S/PDIF output on the PCB (direct out) and the other to a multiplexer (MUX-GAL16V8). The multiplexer acts like a switch between the original S/PDIF signal from the player and the output of the CS8406. The output of the multiplexer leads to the S/PDIF output of the player.

Receiving a standard signal (<88.2kHz) the multiplexer transmits the original S/PDIF signal from the player to the digital output of the player. Receiving a high resolution signal (>=88.2Khz) the multiplexer switches to the output of the CS8406 where a high resolution signal will be output. 

At the "direct out" output of the board a S/PDIF signal is present for all transmission speeds. Only the emphasis signal is not transmitted correctly. This means CDs with emphasis (there are only very few at the market) have too much hights at the "direct out" output.

For external D/A converters which do not cope with a 192kHz input signal an additional AD1896 can be installed (see Extended Kit below). This will decrease 192Khz output rate to 96Khz and allow all the other modes of operation.
The quality of the output signal is indicated by two LEDs. A blue LED is on for 88.2kHz and 96kHz operation and a white LED is on at 192kHz. For lower sample rates both LEDs are off.

For those who want to get real 5.1 PCM output three boards may be cascaded.

Scope of delivery and pricing

There are two kits available:

Hires standard Kit - 88 Euro - consisting of:  Professional double layer PCB (V2.0) MUX-GAL (GAL16V8 programmed and tested) CLOCK-GAL (GAL22V10 programmed and tested) CS8606 S/PDIF transmitter Cooler for the 7805 power regulator
Hires extended Kit - 148 Euro - consisting of: Professional double layer PCB (V2.0) MUX-GAL (GAL16V8 programmed and tested) CLOCK-GAL (GAL22V10 programmed and tested) CS8606 S/PDIF transmitter Cooler for the 7805 power regulator AD1896 Sample rate converter LM2936-3.3V low noise power regulator
Tentlabs XO DIY low jitter Oscillator - 35 Euro: For best jitter performance at at the operation mode 'constant' the XO DIY clock should be used. Don't order if constant output rate is not required (see Powerpoint presentation for details).

All prices include handling, taxes and shipping.

Order and payment

To order please send a mail with your name, your shipping address and the type of kit you like to order to:

I ONLY accept payments via PayPal! 

Parts list and additional parts

The kit does not include all parts needed for PCB equipping and final assembly. 

• All parts tagged with a '*' are part of the kit. 
• The parts tagged with '*E' are only delivered with the extended kit. 
• The parts tagged with '*E' and 'E' have be installare i for Extended Kit only

All other parts you have to buy at your local electronic store. These parts shouldn't  cost more than 20 Euro.

Populating the PCB step by step:

• Tin-plate the pads for the SMD parts
  This is the first of the two most difficult tasks. For training purposes start with the pads of the CS8406. Then put the tin-solder on the pads for the AD1896 (you can omit this if you are building the standard kit). Be sure there is no interconnection between the pins. Interconnections will kill the kit. Take a magnifying-glass and carefully check your work.
  
  
  
   
• Solder in the SMD-Parts
  Start with the CS8406. Use a very thin soldering tip. Look for the dot on top of the CS8406. Turn the CS8406 around till this dot is in the upper left corner of the IC. Having the dot at the wrong position will kill the kit. Press the CS8406 with a finger on the tin-plated pads. Adjust the CS8406 till the circuit points directly lay above the pads. Heat one corner pin with the soldering iron while pressing down the chip. Now heat the pin in the opposite corner. Having fixed these two pins check the position of the chip again and adjust if necessary. Having reached the perfect position, heat all pins one after another. Do not use tin-solder while heating the pins. If you build an extended kit perform the same procedure with the AD1896. The dot of the AD1896 has to be in the upper right corner! Soldering the AD1896 is much more difficult!! So take time, good light and a magnifying-glass.
  
  
  
   
• Solder the sockets, Rs and the diode D1
  This is quite straight forward. Localize the right resistors and solder them in. For the diode watch the white stripe on the PCB print (left in the image). The black stripe of the diode has to be placed above it.
  
  
  
   
• Insert the connectors and the strip for the jumper
  
  
  
   
• Now insert the ceramic and electrolyte Cs and the 3.3V regulator
  Inserting the wires of the electrolyte Cs look for the little + sign on the PCB print. This is where the long wire of the Cs had to be inserted. Using Cs with wires of the same length, locate the positive side of the C and insert it correctly. The photo shows how to insert the 3.3V regulator if the extended kit is built. 
  
  
   
• Next power regulators and LEDs and CO2 and CO3
  The LEDs have a long and a short wire on their bottom side. Insert the LEDs the way that the short wire get inserted at the outer side of the PCB (right side at the image). The 7805 power regulator is inserted with the cooler and tightened with one of the 3mm (length 10mm) screws. Insert the 7808 regulator as deep as possible in the big holes.
  
  
  
   
• Finally the integrated circuits have to be inserted
  The top 20 pin socket is for the HCT244 and below of it the MUX-GAL16V8 has to be inserted. The lowest socket with the 24 pins is for the CLOCK-GAL 22V10. Beware of the dots on top of the ICs. They show the position of pin 1. This dot has to be in the lower left corner for all three ICs! Putting the ICs into the sockets in opposite direction will kill the kit!!
   
  
  
  
• Final check
  Take a close look to the PCB. Watch for shortened pins. Check if the ICs are at the right position. Also check if the dots of the ICs are at the right position. If you are satisfied with your work and the PCB looks like the photos above the PCB should be operational.

For PCM 5.1 output the signals have to be taken from the "direct out" output of the kits (left in the schematics above). Also three cynch coax connectors must be built in the housing of the player.